São Paulo is the financial and industrial engine of Brazil. Vast and exhilarating, São Paulo is one of the most underrated cities on Earth. It may at first seem like an impenetrable concrete jungle, but the city has plenty of diversions and attractions to keep you occupied, from world-class architecture, museums, and restaurants to 24-hour nightlife, one-of-a-kind street art, and unbeatable culture. They may reside in a metropolis of 20 million people, but paulistanos can be very friendly and affable, welcoming visitors to partake in the organized chaos of the big, gritty city they call home. Give it a chance and you might ♥ SP, too!
Nickname: Sampa or SP | Population: 12 million paulistanos/20 million in metro | Area: 486.5 sq mi | Airports: São Paulo International Airport – Guarulhos (GRU) and Congonhas Airport (CGH) | Time Zone: -3h from UTC/-2h DST | Famous for: nightlife, pizza, museums, street art, highrises, helicopters, traffic.
On arrival: Use the free airport wifi to order a ride via Uber, or take a cab from one of the prepaid taxi offices closest to the terminal exit; insist that the driver uses GPS. The best and least-expensive way to get reais (Brazilian currency) is to withdraw money from the ATM; many Brazilian ATMs do not operate using the U.S. bank card network, but at least one or two will.
Best ‘hoods: Centro is São Paulo’s most interesting district, with sleek Modernist architecture and a vibrant, if gritty, atmosphere. Avenida Paulista is the city’s iconic thoroughfare, the embodiment of São Paulo’s status as Brazil’s financial capital. The Jardins area is great for upscale shopping and dining, while Baixo Augusta bristles with underground clubs and music venues that’ll keep you up all night. Liberdade, the heart of São Paulo’s Asian community, bustles with markets and delicious street food. Vila Madalena is packed with botecos and bars featuring live music, and is also home to the Beco de Batman, a series of alleyways with spectacular graffiti and murals. Pinheiros, Itaim Bibi, and Vila Olímpia round out the high-end zones. As always, be street-smart.
Best beaches: Believe it or not, São Paulo actually has beaches just an hour or so southeast of the city, along the Litoral Paulista. The beaches near Santos are the closest, with Guarujá boasting sparkling sands and plenty of tanned derrieres.
Best sights: The view from the Edificio Itália, Avenida Paulista, MASP, Ibirapuera Park, Museu Afro Brasil, Municipal Theatre, Liberdade, Memorial da América Latina, Horto Florestal, the Art Deco Pacaembu Stadium, and the Sambadrome during Carnival.
Best eats: Churrasco (Brazilian barbecue) at Varanda Grill, feijoada (the national dish) at Bolinha or Capim Santo, por kilo (Brazilian buffet) at Santa Clara, comida mineira (rustic Brazilian food) at Consulado Mineiro, açaí na tigela (frozen açaí) at Açaí Mooca, mortadella sandwiches at Hocca Bar, pizza at Bráz or Speranza, Italian at Bacio di Latte, sushi at Temakeria Paulista, burgers at Z Deli, Brazilian vegan/veg at Tradicional Casa do Mate or Dona Vitamina.
Best dranks: Juices at Lá da Venda or Joy Juice, beers at Bar Brahma or Cervejoteca, happy hour at SubAstor or Bar Quintal da Mooca, views and friends at Skye Bar or Terraço Itália.
Best hypes: Any samba school rehearsal (Vai-Vai and Tucuruvi are my faves), Vila Madalena at night for live Brazilian music, Baixo Augusta for underground clubs and music spots, upscale partying at D-Edge and downscale debauchery at Love Story, LGBT club nights at The Week, Bubu Lounge, and Cantho.
Best sounds and scenes: Negra Li, Criolo, Emicida, Rodrigo Pitta, Fabio Góes, and Curumin, just to whet the musical appetite. Bruna Surfistinha and HBO miniseries Alice for cinematic eye candy.
Best advice: Remember to be street-smart at all times; leave unnecessary valuables at home. Try to speak a little bit of Portuguese; you’ll make new friends that way. Service in restaurants and other establishments can be slow; try not to let that ruin your trip to such an incredibly memorable place. Use condoms. Have fun!
Image credit: Leandro Neumann Ciuffo