Sometimes, I stumble upon photographs and other memorabilia that draws me in, reminding me of the transitory nature of culture and of travel itself. Often, what attracts us to a place isn’t the place by itself, but the place at a specific time. Timing is everything, after all. The 1970s were Venezuela’s time. With the […]
Time Travel: Caracas 1970s Read More
Last summer, Wallpaper* magazine published its “Born in Brazil” issue, a 210-page design-focused exposé on the established names and up-and-comers in the realms of Brazilian work and play. Along with the print version, the magazine included on its website this beautifully-shot, beautifully-scored look at the remarkable energy – and traffic – of São Paulo, as
A Tale of Two Cities – Part One Read More
So, I’ve settled into a new one-bedroom apartment in Downtown São Paulo. The place has character: huge rooms, high ceilings, French doors leading out to a small terrace where I can sit and write (theoretically), with my feet being massaged on top of the clothes dryer. My street is one of those formerly-grand boulevards gone
The View from the Crib Read More
First, I want to start the new year giving thanks to you, my readers, for traveling with me this far. I know I’m not very communicative via the comments section, but I sincerely appreciate every person who looks at my blog and takes away even the smallest bit of inspiration – be it to travel,
A Thank You and a Goodbye Read More
Vai-Vai was my first. In January of 2006, during my first trip to São Paulo, I became washed in the downpour of sound and energy that is the open-air rehearsal of the Vai-Vai Samba School. I fell in love with Brazil that night. With the cadences that were only two or three beats away from
Feliz Na Vida: Sou Vai-Vai Read More
8:00am Wake up after having gone to bed at, oh, 3:30am. 8:15am Run out the door of your friend’s apartment, down five flights of stairs with two large carry-ons and a briefcase, and down three blocks to the U-Bahn station. 8:24am Board the subway at Hermannplatz, pushing your way through the morning commuters to grab a
Berlin to Brazil: A Suggested Itinerary Read More
“Gringo.” I can’t stand that damn word. And it’s all over Latin America, from restaurants with names like Gringo’s Pizza to movies with titles like “Gringo Wedding.” The meaning of the word varies from country to country, but I’ve not found one place yet where it’s actually a positive moniker, despite many travelers who
Three years ago, shortly after dusk on a crisp July evening, I left the gym and walked with a friend down a cavernous back-street in Copacabana, the gritty, dense, intense, world-famous beachfront neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro. At that time, my Portuguese skills were nonexistent, and I conversed with my friend in an uneasy Portuñol
Reconciling with Rio Read More
Samba schools around Brazil are starting their practice sessions for next February’s Carnival shenanigans. Still, during the off-season, many schools offer glimpses of skin and sequins for tourists and Sunday strollers. Here’s (very rough) video of a tiny group from Rio’s Salgueiro Samba School, warming up the crowd with hips and syncopation on a dreary
From the AV Room: Samba No Pé Read More
In São Paulo’s boho-chic neighborhood of Vila Madalena, graffiti artists have claimed a couple of streets as an impactful open-air gallery of revolving exhibitions. Depicting city life, Brazilian slang, “Blackee Power” (the Brazilian term for a stay-sof-Fro!), and national pride, these murals stand testament to the city’s resurgence, unlike their unfortunate counterparts in New York.
Photo Essay: Madalena Murals Read More
